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streets in Iran

by Sarah Barrell on May 21, 2009

At first I wasn't sure if it was a question. "You don't have visa?" says the immigration officer again, raising an eyebrow as punctuation.

It's taken more than two months to secure one but I do "have visa". He gets up and leaves the booth, my passport in hand. It's hot. Tehran's new airport seems to have been built minus air conditioning. I fidget with my headscarf, totting up all the American stamps in my passport. Palm-sweating minutes later the officer returns, marks my visa with a perfunctory signature and with a relieved sigh, plucks a lipstick-sized atomizer of cologne from his top pocket. The booth fills with the scent of rosewater. He flashes me a bashful smile and, offering me a spray, says: "Welcome to Iran."

Iran is not high on most people's holiday lists. Even with Obama's diplomatic efforts the country is regarded suspiciously by the international community. Yet Cox & Kings, with whom I'm travelling, are experiencing record bookings on...Read More >>

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